PDO Slopes of Meliton & PGI Sithonia Trip Review
A Perfect Blend of Old and New, Local and International
The three peninsulas of Halkidiki which jut out into the Aegean Sea like three wizened fingers will be familiar to anyone who knows the geography of Greece. In the north of the country not far from Thessaloniki, Greece’s 2nd biggest city, Halkidiki offers wine and food lovers a glimpse of vinous and gastronomic heaven – perhaps one that even the Greek gods on nearby Mount Olympus would be tempted to come to earth to enjoy!
Halkidiki is home to two wine ‘appellations’
First at the highest level of Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) is ‘Slopes of Meliton’. This made history when it was established in 1982 in that it was the first PDO in Greece to allow indigenous (local) and international (in this case French) varieties to be blended together in the same wine.
The ‘slopes’ of Meliton, but think of rolling hills, are situated in the southern part of the Sithonia peninsula, the middle ‘finger’ of Halkidiki. The vineyards are located at an altitude of 100 – 350m and are not irrigated. The soil is decomposed sandstone rocks and sandy/clay loam. Surrounded by, and close to the sea, the climate is classic Mediterranean.
The permitted white grape varieties are Assyrtiko, Athiri, and Roditis. Assyrtiko, considered THE finest Greek white variety originates from Santorini, as does Athiri. Roditis is best known from Attica. When these three varieties are skillfully blended together they produce a white wine which is fragrant, floral with medium body, a perfect match for the abundant fish and seafood of the region.
The permitted red grape varieties are Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc (both originating from France) and, the ‘secret weapon’, Limnio. The Limnio variety deserves a special mention, as it is an ancient Greek variety – one of the oldest – mentioned by ancient writers such as Homer, Hesiod and Polydeukes (who referred to it as ῾Limnia῾). The island of Lemnos is considered its birthplace, but the majority of plantings are found in the vineyards of northern Greece. Forming approximately 70% of the blend Limnio gives red berry fruits, silky tannins, and elegance. Whilst the two Cabernets give more structure and body to the wine.
PGI Sithonia
The second appellation is PGI Sithonia. Situated in the same middle finger of Halkidiki, PGI Sithonia has a similar climate and terroir as the PDO which it encompasses. But the permitted grape varieties are different.
The main white grape is Malagousia, a variety which was almost extinct until it was revived in the 1970s. With its characteristic aromas of pears, herbs, and flowers, it’s now considered one of Greece’s finest varieties and is grown all over the country. Assyrtiko is also used, but unlike the PDO, it is made as a mono-varietal. The example we tasted was remarkably close to the style and quality of Santorini. Limnio is also used but vinified as a white wine (Blancs de Noir), and Savatiano, Sauvignon Blanc, Muscat, Chardonnay and Viognier are also permitted.
The main red variety is Syrah, which must be at least 60% of any blend. There is a long list of other permitted varieties: Xinomavro, Limnio, Moschomavro, Muscat of Hamburg, Fokiano, Pamidi, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Mourvedre, Cinsault, and Grenache Rouge!
Domaine Porto Carras: Historical Pioneers, Innovators, and a ‘New Era’
To say that Domaine Porto Carras is a legend in modern Greek wine is a huge understatement. They actually started the renaissance of Greek wine! Established in the late 1960s by shipowner John Carras, the winery started the revolution in viticulture and winemaking which continues to this day. Employing a famous consultant from Bordeaux, Domaine Carras was the first winery in Greece to plant classic French varietals and embrace modern winemaking techniques. They set the bar high and are still pushing the boundaries.
Producing in both the PDO and PGI appellations, Porto Carras produce a wonderful range of wines in a variety of styles: crisp dry whites, a gastronomic rose made from five different grape varieties, elegant, full-bodied reds, and a luscious dessert wine made from sun-dried grapes.
Domaine Porto Carras are not sitting on their laurels and have ambitious plans to make this THE best winery in Greece, so, as they say, watch this space for exciting things to come.
Food & Local Products
In common with the rest of the Mediterranean, gastronomy and wine go together. Halkidiki is a rich source of various local products including:
- OLIVES: Halkidiki is an endless olive grove. There is a forest of olive trees to see wherever you look, with their characteristic silver-green colour. Olive tree cultivation covers approximately 360,000 acres with 6 million trees. 60% of the population is employed in the cultivation and production of olives and there are more than 150 processing units. The annual production is estimated at about 120,000 tonnes.
- GRAINS: are the second most important agricultural products. Hard grain (Triticum durum) is mostly cultivated which is used for pasta and yellow breads. Delicious bread products are made from the flour in the traditional bakeries. Pies, filled with local cheeses and greens from the mountains, are another special delicacy of the area.
- FISH & MUSSELS: With 550 kilometres coastline, there is plenty of fresh fish. And a generous production of mussels from Olympiada, which come from the crystal clear waters
- CHEESES: Feta, goat cheese, kefalotyri, graviera, are some of the cheeses from the area, and there is also local traditional yogurt with its rich flavour, and aromatic butter which gives a special taste to dishes and to pastry.
Thessaloniki, a Gastronomic Paradise
Although it’s the 2nd largest city in Greece, Thessaloniki is considered to be the foodie capital, and the vibrant restaurant scene is witness to this. With major influences from Asia Minor (with the influx of Greeks in the population exchange after 1922), the Middle East, and mainland Greece, there is a huge range of cuisines and something for everyone. Great food, great wine and a thriving city – what better base from where to experience and explore the wines of PDO Slopes of Meliton & PGI Sithonia!
About the programme Promotion of PDO Slopes of Meliton and PGI Sithonia Wines:
The programme “Promotion of PDO Slopes of Meliton and PGI Sithonia Wines” is co-financed by Greece and the European Union during the period 2021-2023, with the Domaine Porto Carras new era as the beneficiary.